Installation of Werever outdoor cabinets does not require previous cabinet installation experience. A basic knowledge of common hand tools is required, but extensive knowledge of carpentry is not necessary. Almost all of the projects in our photo gallery are of first-time installations. These projects are of either DIY installed projects, or with a hired a handyman or contractor. You can expect your first project to be successful with a minimal learning curve.
Special Installation Note: Please read this article: How to Have Straight Outdoor Cabinet Doors
Print / Download PDF installation instructions.
If you have questions, please call (813) 241-9701.
Before you begin, familiarize yourself with your cabinet layout.
It is a good idea to lay out your entire outdoor kitchen before you even begin leveling or fastening anything.
Do not overtighten screws. Hand-tighten or use a low-torque power tool setting to prevent stripping in the HDPE material, and always pre-drill holes for screws with a 1/8″ bit.
Werever cabinets are heavy, installation will be much easier with two or more people.
All of your project’s hardware will be included in a sealed bag.
The hardware has been carefully counted for your project’s layout.
Some projects may require a skilled handyman or contractor.
Reference Project Drawings
Lay Out Your Cabinets
Even experienced installers should reference the project drawings regularly throughout the installation. Small placement errors early in the process can affect cabinet alignment, appliance fitment, and countertop templating later in the installation. Taking the time to properly prepare and organize the installation area will help ensure a smoother installation process and a more accurate final result.
Insert the adjustable leveling legs into the cups located on the bottom of the cabinets. We recommend using a rubber mallet to ensure the legs are fully inserted into the cups.
Use the wall as your starting reference but always fit the cabinet layout to the actual space rather than assuming the walls are perfectly straight or square. After identifying the highest point of the installation area, begin installation at the corners) and work outward.
Position all cabinets before trimming fillers. Trim filler pieces only after the cabinet layout has been finalized and verified.
NOTE: Leveling and Squaring the cabinet is the most important part of the installation!
If you do not level and square the cabinets properly, the doors will not align, and drawers may be racked.
Wall Cabinet Installation
IMPORTANT: Install any wall cabinets before any base cabinets.
Wall cabinets should be supported by a minimum of four
(4) anchors, placed in each corner of the cabinet. It may be appropriate to add more anchors, especially for larger wall cabinets and depending on the wall type.
Werever does not include wall cabinet fastening hardware because the appropriate hardware will vary depending on your wall’s construction.
It is very important that you choose an anchor suitable for your wall’s construction and that the anchors fasten to a structural element within the wall. It may be necessary to place shims behind the wall cabinet when anchoring.
If your wall has any bow or curve, overtightening anchors without shims can distort the cabinet shape and cause door alignment problems (*racking).
The wall cabinet’s box should still be PLUMB, LEVEL, and SQUARE after installation.
Unlike base cabinets, which can be adjusted with leveling legs, the wall cabinets rely on proper anchoring with shimming to achieve leveling.
Connecting Cabinets
Most cabinets and fillers have partially pre-drilled pilot holes that are perfectly aligned for a precision fit. If the pilot holes don’t line up, that is a red flag that your cabinets are NOT LEVEL.
For some parts, pilot holes do not exist. You will have to drill your own holes.
Use cabinet clamps (with rubber pads) to hold the cabinets firmly together and prevent slipping.
Finish drilling the pilot holes using a 1/4″ bit.
Fasten the cabinets together using the provided stainless steel binding post hardware.
Tighten both sides with two (2)
Phillips head screwdrivers.
Level, square, and plumb the run as you add cabinets.
Leveling, Plump & Square Cabinets
NOTE: Leveling, plumbing, and squaring cabinets are vital steps for a secure fit and smooth door and drawer operation. Without proper alignment, cabinets become racked* and doors will not close correctly. Install wall cabinets before installing base cabinets.
Adjust the leveling legs up or down to bring the cabinet to a level, plumb position; no shimming required.
Begin at the highest point on the sloping surface.
Establish a level horizontal line at 34-3/4″ above the highest point on the slope of the finished floor. Place the first two (2) cabinets in this location. Line up the backs of the cabinets with the horizontal line. Connect the cabinets together using the provided binding posts.
Level left to right (use a level).
Plumb vertically (use a level).
Level front to back (use a level on top of the cabinet).
Check that the cabinet is square by using a carpenter’s
sauare in the corners
Attach the cabinets to the wall.
Hardware not provided.
Move the next cabinet into place and attach it to the previous cabinet.
Repeat steps 3-7. Continue until all cabinets are installed.
Anchoring Cabinets to Walls
NOTE: Leveling, plumbing, and squaring cabinets are vital steps for a secure fit and smooth door and drawer operation. Without proper alignment, cabinets become racked* and doors will not close correctly. Install wall cabinets before installing base cabinets.
Adjust the leveling legs up or down to bring the cabinet to a level, plumb position; no shimming required.
Begin at the highest point on the sloping surface.
Establish a level horizontal line at 34-3/4″ above the highest point on the slope of the finished floor. Place the first two (2) cabinets in this location. Line up the backs of the cabinets with the horizontal line. Connect the cabinets together using the provided binding posts (see Connecting Cabinets section).
Level left to right (use a level).
Plumb vertically (use a level).
Level front to back (use a level on top of the cabinet).
Check that the cabinet is square by using a carpenter’s
square in the corners
Attach the cabinets to the wall (see Anchoring Cabinet to Wall section). Hardware not provided.
Move the next cabinet into place and attach it to the previous cabinet. Repeat steps 3-7. Continue until all cabinets are installed.
Filler Installation
NOTE: Mount the filler so that the face is flush with the current or adjacent cabinet’s door face.
Depending on your design, you might have fillers that need to be scribed or trimmed to fit.
The return piece on the filler connects to the cabinet.
Stainless steel connectors have been provided for this purpose.
Fillers will have the same pre-drilled pattern on the return piece that cabinets have on the panel.
Fillers can be trimmed with a table saw or circular saw if necessary for the cleanest edges. You can also cut the filler with an ordinary woodworking saw.
1. Cabinet
2. Filler
3. Mount filler flush with cabinet door
4. Fasten return to cabinet
5. Trim or scribe in field if needed
Cutting Through Cabinets
Holes can be easily cut in cabinet backs, bottoms, and sides (unless the cut interferes with the cabinet’s drawer slide).
The diagrams outline the approved CUT ZONES for utilities. Do not remove entire panels from the cabinet. Cut only the minimum hole size required for your plumbing, gas, or electrical lines.
Morse hole saws are not recommended. The HDPE polymer shavings tend to melt inside the bits. We suggest using a carbide-tipped blade for plastic and plexiglass.
NOTE: Avoid cutting corners and joints, as that will alter the structural integrity and strength of the cabinet and VOID THE WARRANTY.
Back Panels Installation
NOTE: It is very important that you use the supplied screws (that are the proper depth) to secure the panel.
Find the hardware labeled “Finished Back Hardware”.
This set contains:
SHORT 7/8″ FLATHEAD SCREWS: these are for holding the 1/4″ spacers in place.
LONG 1-1/2″ PAN-HEAD SCREWS: these are for holding panels in place.
1/4″ THICK SPACERS: these are used to fill the void between the cabinet’s back and the back panel.
One side has beveled holes to countersink the short flathead screws. This will relieve pressure around the screw and prevent potential cracking or splitting of panels over time as the material expands and contracts with temperature changes.
Reference your PLAN and ELEVATION DRAWINGS to help you find the correct panel location.
Countertop Installation
Grill cabinets come with a movable T-Bar Brace. There is no industry standard among grill manufacturers for gas or wiring locations. The brace is movable, allowing installers to position it correctly for gas fittings, and wiring harnesses.
Set the BOX JACKET into the cabinet cutout so its front edge rests flat on the front edge of the cabinet face panel cutout. Slide the T-bar brace under the back of the jacket.
Shift the movable T-bar as needed to make room for an LP storage tank underneath the grill.
Optional Countertop Support
Once your cabinets are
T-Bar Brace
Grill cabinets come with a movable T-Bar Brace. There is no industry standard among grill manufacturers for gas or wiring locations. The brace is movable, allowing installers to position it correctly for gas fittings, and wiring harnesses.
Set the BOX JACKET into the cabinet cutout so its front edge rests flat on the front edge of the cabinet face panel cutout. Slide the T-bar brace under the back of the jacket.
Shift the movable T-bar as needed to make room for an LP storage tank underneath the grill.
Grill Insulating Jackets
After installing the countertop, install the insulated grill jacket (to protect your HDPE cabinets from high heat) and then the built-in grill.
Insulated jackets come in two styles: flange or box.
FLANGE JACKETS are supported by the countertop and hang by a flange (top lip). They are designed to hold the full weight of the grill by itself. Use the movable T-bar brace underneath for maximum stability.
BOX JACKETS are built with square edges and no top flange. They are supported from underneath by a movable T-bar brace and the front edge of the grill cabinet.
The next step is to lower your built-in grill directly into the insulated jacket. Route gas lines and electrical cords through the designated access holes in the jacket.
Toe Kick Panel Installation
